48 of 2018

head           Newsletter No. 48                                                         14 December 2018

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Molli, the brand that’s reinventing knitwear

Created over 130 years ago, the Molli brand is getting a makeover! After childrenswear, the Swiss label is now revealing refined and timeless women’s collections.

Traditional Know-How

Wilhelm Rüegger opened the doors of Molli, a high-end machine knitting factory, in 1886. Using sophisticated avant-garde techniques, the designer played with knitwear, creating comfortable timeless pieces able to stand the test of time without a hitch. After specialising in underwear, vests and jumpers, in 1950 the label went into childrenswear and designed one of its iconic pieces: the garter stitch newborn outfit.

Even though Molli had become a benchmark brand, by 2015 it was on the decline. This was when Charlotte de Fayet, a loyal customer, decided to save her favourite brand and take over the reins. Molli got a new lease of life!

Molli’s Renaissance

Freshly arrived at the head of the artistic direction, Charlotte de Fayet launched the first womenswear line. A cable knit blouson jacket, flowing skirts, tops with ruffle finishes, pleated knit dresses, etc. Molli now offers a broad wardrobe of elegant, refined pieces. Like a legacy, Charlotte de Fayet has kept the brand’s delicate imprint, pairing modernity with traditional know-how.

With wool in winter and Egyptian cotton in summer, the Swiss label prioritises pure materials, never tiring of ultra-fine virgin merino wools, combed cottons in soft yet strong fibres… taking its name from the German word mollig (warm and cosy), Molli has come fully into its own.

The brand pays particular attention to the slightest details: the linings are in Oxford stitch for a quilted effect, the pockets become invisible, while the mother-of-pearl buttons are sewn by hand. Bordering on haute couture, the pieces are assembled by hand, knit by knit. Designed in the workshops in France and Italy, the knit stitches are exclusively developed by and for Molli. Garter stitch, openwork moss stitch, lace-effect knit, pointelle or Aran knit… the yarns intertwine to create timeless pieces of exceptional quality.

France, Canada, Japan, China, the United States… 130 years after it was founded, Molli now exports its know-how to the four corners of the globe. Promostyl

Denim Première Vision showcases market trends for Spring/Summer 2020

By Christel Divert

Denim Première Vision, the trade show specialised in denim fabrics and sourcing, presented the main market trends for the Spring/Summer 2020 at its latest session, held for the first time in London on December 5 and 6. For the occasion, the show’s creative team developed four themes, labelled ‘Discover’, ‘Care & Share’, ‘Performance Perspective’ and ‘Personalisation, Be You’.

‘Discover’ underlined the fact that fashion means attitude, tolerance, inclusiveness, no restrictions, style and beauty. The goal for the industry is to forge ahead towards new directions, cultures and aspects of life. The trends for this theme were “airy blues”, featuring “ultra clean, homogeneous, very soft and light-coloured” washed fabrics – combining unique lightness and smoothness that “make it possible to extend the vocabulary of shapes, especially for tops, while in the past light, thin fabrics couldn’t withstand the various treatments,” – as well as delicate, eco-responsible finishings. The fabrics come alive with relief, material and colour effects: openwork patterns, a 3D feel through the use of patches, origami influences and trouser hems that are frayed or simply worn by time and usage.

The second theme, ‘Care and Share’, focused on how fashion can help and support, especially by adopting a responsible approach to social issues and the environment: “we share ideas, questions, doubts, convictions and solutions with an open-source attitude.” Among the main expressions of this theme, there was an array of soft, loose, flexible, lightweight fabrics with a post-streetwear feel, alongside more feminine ones with a nod to silky, flowing materials; linen in all its dark blue hues, with a mat finish in contrast to bling brilliance; delicate treatments and washes; tone-on-tone stripes and soft, heavier fabrics designed to cater to a “new masculinity.”

The ‘Performance Perspective’ theme analysed fashion as performance, as a service promoting a better life, as sustainability and stable, long-term relationships. Fashion must also be flexible and directional, to enable us to move outside our comfort zone and become “an everyday hero in real life.”  The trend here is all about recycled denim, even denim fabrics that include synthetic fibres. “In less than a year, fabric manufacturers have managed to produce recycled synthetic fabrics which conserve all their properties, from colour to elasticity. Before, they didn’t have the persistence they have now,” said Pascaline Wilhelm, creative director of Première Vision. Issuing from this theme, a plethora of environmentally friendly finishings, sophisticated stretch fabrics with a ready-to-wear feel and skin-tight super-stretch ones for a sport vibe, multi-pocket denim ideal for carrying digital devices as an evolution of workwear and functional fashion, fabrics whose distinctive feature is solidity and organic cotton fabrics which are still part of the landscape though, according to Wilhelm, this isn’t the most “relevant” direction for the industry.

The final theme was ‘Personalisation, Be You’, focusing on fashion as communication, as a form of expression and identity, and as a way of connecting to a cause. “This trend is in opposition to the homogenisation that can be found in fashion. It gives free rein to highly visual designs that will be able to make a difference in stores or in a collection,” said Wilhelm.
‘Personalisation’ takes the shape of embroidery, graded and shaded effects, spray-on colour swatches, overdyes and colour splashes for arty, high-impact effects, producing extremely colourful fabrics which can turn into useful commercial tools in this world made of countless shades of indigo. Fashion Network

High attendance at ICAC World Café on Organic Cotton

The turnout exceeded far expectations at the seventh annual World Café on ‘Organic Cotton: Challenges and Policy Perspectives’ hosted by the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC). The three-day conference focused on creating a prosperous organic cotton sector that will benefit everyone in the supply chain beginning from the farmer to the consumer.

“I was very pleased with the initiative of ICAC to host this World Café on organic cotton, and the invitation to the Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) and German Development Group (GIZ) to moderate it. It offered a great opportunity to exchange ideas and learn from each other about strengthening the sector and the role of organic cotton in the future. It is a great step toward much-needed collaboration and supporting each other to contribute to that one goal we all share: Ensuring a sustainable future for cotton and the farmers who grow it,” Bart Vollaard — programme director at the Amsterdam-based OCA.

The World Café was designed to give every attendee a voice by breaking the audience into groups of 8 to 12 people per table and encouraging them to debate and find consensus on challenging topics. Approximately 150 attendees discussed seven questions related to organic cotton, such as policies that can be enacted to support the sector, as well as what steps could be taken to make improvements at the farm level and throughout the value chain.

“I was astonished by the overwhelming participation and engagement on the topic of organic cotton,” said Wolfgang Bertenbreiter, programme director with the GIZ, and co-moderator of the session. “One could almost got the impression that organic cotton is the most important topic.” F2F

Did you know……..

No wonder those at the top of the fashion world are so wealthy – the industry sees an annual revenue of more than $20 billion.

Technically, items are only “vintage”” if they were made more than sixty but less than a hundred years ago.

“Retro,” on the other hand, doesn’t refer to old items, but rather refers to styles which copy vintage items.

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