Newsletter 8 of 2020

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Newsletter No. 7                                                                                                 6 March 2020

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Moncler takes SA surf brand Mami Wata to Paris Fashion Week

Sal Masekela, co-founder of Mami Wata.

Global luxury brand Moncler takes Cape Town surf brand to Paris Fashion Week.

Italian luxury clothing brand Moncler announced at a party in Paris Fashion Week that they would like to collaborate with African Surf brand Mami Wata to be part of the 2 Moncler 1952 Genius  range.

For Moncler, this is the first African collaboration with Cape Town based start-up Mami Wata, which has been operating for only two years.

Launched in 2017, Mami Wata is a premium surf brand that designs and manufactures all of  its own range of apparel products in South Africa.

Comprising of shorts, tees, sweats and  caps known for its mischievous patterns, the selected range is going to be sold in two  hundred Moncler stores globally, as well as in some of the world’s top department stores and  boutiques.

The collaboration range features the Moncler logo, Mami Wata’s banana graphic  and signature surfing zebra graphic.

“Moncler emailed us out of the blue. They saw the brand and liked the African surf story and  our quirky designs”, says Nick Dutton, CEO and co-founder.

“The Moncler Genius project is  one of the hottest things in global fashion, so it’s humbling and also very exciting. Anything  that shines a light on African surf culture is good.“

Moncler designer Sergio Zambon says he likes to involve external players, engaging in rich creative  dialogues. He says the spirit of this collaboration is energetic and youthful.

“The power of African surf culture is redefining the identity of global surf culture in its  entirety,” adds Sal Masekela, Mami Wata co-founder and son of legendary South African  musician Hugh Masekela.

“Mami Wata being chosen by Moncler shows the brand is also a  fresh voice in global design and fashion culture. It’s a real honour to have been chosen to be  a part of Moncler Genius, it’s a global celebration of design, fashion and creativity”.

Moncler, headquartered in Milan, Italy, is one of the world’s leading luxury brands and their  celebrated Genius project is now in its third year of collaboration with top designers from  around the world.

Since launching in 2018, Moncler’s Genius collaboration project has  become a juggernaut for the Italian outerwear company.  IOL Lifestyle

When Fashion Reconciles Luxury and the Environment

A marketing pitch that has now become a must, today sustainability is the watchword of luxury brands in search of new credibility. Faced with ever-more demanding buyers when it comes to respect for the environment, luxury groups and houses are rethinking their position with a series of concrete measures affecting, among other things, the materials used in their clothing and accessories collections.

Transparently-sourced textiles

At Chanel, they also believe that responsible sourcing of raw materials is a sine qua non condition to luxury’s future. The same is true of Kering. “In 2013, we created the Materials Innovation Lab, a hub with over 3,000 textiles that are sustainable or correspond to these sustainable criteria,” says Marie-Claire Daveu, the Kering group’s Chief Sustainability Officer. “All the aspects of these fabrics are studied there, from their production to their impact on biodiversity. It’s one of the tools allowing designers to find the sustainable textile that best meets their needs. We, of course, keep a close eye on the entire sector. For example, for wool, we have a partnership with suppliers in New Zealand, who have signed specifications aiming to certify a fair price for breeders, and in which they commit to respect biodiversity and animal well-being.”

It’s the same story at LVMH. “We are raising creatives’ awareness about environmental issues and are committed to providing them with coherent tools. For this reason, we have launched the “Materials for Thought” book that presents over 300 materials with a lower impact, particularly a number of innovative fibres,” explains Sylvie Bénard, LVMH Environment Director.

From ecology to egology

Other innovations include the development of bio-based fabrics, created using processed natural resources, to obtain equivalent performance to synthetic materials. Princesse Tam-Tam, for instance, is offering a swimsuit for summer 2020 in bio-based polyamide made from castor oil. Having become a special environmental advisor for LVMH, designer Stella McCartney recently showed incredibly lifelike faux fur. Made of Koba, a fully recyclable mix of corn and polyester, this imitation produces up to 63% less greenhouse gas, without exploiting animals, of course.

Moreover, certain brands are taking care to measure their carbon AND water footprint, while others are thinking about the product’s lifecycle. In 2013, Kering joined forces with Worn Again, a start-up that has created a technology to transform used polyester and cellulose fibres into new fabrics. A phenomenon known as “upcycling” has inspired a great many young designers, such as Marine Serre, who won the LVMH Prize in 2017 with a collection made entirely from recycled fabric. The future’s looking green!  Promostyl

Angola spends $235 million on apparel imports in 2019

Angola spent $170 million on new imported clothes and $65 million on import of used clothing (bales) in 2019, resources that could be saved if the country’s textile industry was in operation, the country’s secretary of state for industry Ivan do Prado told President Joao Lourenço during the latter’s visit to the Nova Textang II factory recently.

With the country’s three main factories—Satec, Africa Textil and Textang II—restarting, textile companies can produce 20 million items of apparel every year.

New Textang II has a monthly production capacity of 250,000 linear metres of fabric, following an investment of $251 million on upgrading its facilities and machinery.

The factory was part of the package to recover three major textile units in the country, an initiative that received a $1.2-billion funding from Japan, according to a report in a website dedicated to news related to Africa.

After revival and modernisation, Nova Textang II and the other two factories were sold to the private sector in September 2013.

Nigeria plans integrated textile-garment parkin Katsina

Nigeria has conceived an integrated textile and garment park to end the annual loss worth $6 billion due to import of garment and textile goods, the government announced recently. It had already partnered with the Kaduna state to establish the park in the Funtua local government area in Katsina state. The project is expected to be executed within 24 months.

Minister of state for industry, trade and investment Mariam Katagum announced the plan during a recent meeting with deputy governor of Katsina state Alhaji Mannir Yakubu.

The project aims to revitalise the textile industry and boost production of cotton in Nigeria. The project will be a public-private partnership.

The Funtua Integrated Textile and Garment Park is one of the six priority projects under the Nigeria Industrial Revolution Plan of the federal government, she said.

The park would aggregate cotton from over 800,000 farmers from northern Nigeria. F2F

Did you know……..

At the end of the eighteenth century, the textile industries of Europe were moving rapidly into the industrial era.

The era of cotton had begun; worsteds were outpacing woolens; factory production was returning manufacturing to the cities; and markets had expanded well beyond the luxury trade of the fifteenth, sixteenth, and seventeenth centuries.

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