Newsletter No. 30 8 August 2019
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Sustainable synthetic fabric: Designers’ favourite new material
Forget reams of Duchesse satin and Organza. Today, luxury houses swear by nothing but sustainable synthetic fabrics. Riding the ethical fashion trend, brands are now prioritising natural or recycled fibres for collections that are both avant-garde and ethical.
Ethical fashion: The new luxury
Producing less but better is the new credo of many ready-to-wear brands and luxury houses.
Prioritising natural fibres, ethical textile production processes, minimising the carbon footprint, biodegradable packaging, etc.: more and more international labels are establishing their innovative signature through their commitment to an eco-friendly approach.
At a time when fast fashion and overconsumption are gaining ground at top speed, designers are attempting to slow down the pace, offering fashion that is both creative and innovative.
Recycling for clothing: The textile industry of tomorrow
H&M, Gucci, Stella McCartney, Levi’s… while just ten years ago ethical brands were seen as rare and elitist, they now feel increasingly concerned about the impact the textile industry has on our beloved planet.
After pieces made of citrus fibre designed by Salvatore Ferragamo and regenerated cashmere from Stella McCartney, the house of Prada is now launching “Re-Nylon”, a mini-collection of six bags made from Econyl nylon.
Developed by the Italian manufacturer Aquafil, Econyl is the nylon of the future. Made from waste, particularly plastic and used fishing nets, this fibre can be endlessly recycled. In 2011, it opened its first Econyl factory in Slovenia, followed by the launch of its ambitious “Econyl Reclaiming Program” project, setting up an international waste collection network. Various NGOs, institutions and companies now take part in Giulio Bonazzi’s programme.
While many brands, such as Adidas, Arena, Levi’s, (which revisited its 522 jeans in Econyl nylon), Stella McCartney and Burberry, are already taking advantage of this innovative fibre, Prada states that it wants to use it to completely replace nylon by 2021. “A vital component of Prada’s heritage and a hallmark of its approach to contemporary fashion – a challenging of convention, an elevation of utilitarian materials to fashion, a new form of luxury – nylon is an emblem of the brand,” states Lorenzo Bertelli (head of marketing and communication at Prada).
In 2018, the luxury house relaunched its Prada Linea Rossa line, originally released in 1997. Combining haute couture and high technological performance, the brand is concentrating on all the new manufacturing possibilities, creating functional, avant-garde pieces with an unmistakably futuristic look.
While many designers have decided to ban any kind of fur in their collections, they are, on the other hand, including quite unusual materials. Dries Van Noten and its PVC tulle dress, Sies Marjan and its smocked vinyl blouses, Paco Rabanne and its plastic dresses, Mugler and its ultra-stretch thigh-high boots… fashion never stops opening new doors and reinventing itself; as the philosopher Lavoisier said, “Nothing is lost, everything is transformed”. Promostyl
Kenyan Mountex Textile Industry set to reopen after 17 years
Mountex Textile Industry in Kenya’s Laikipia county is set to reopen after staying closed for 17 years. A feasibility study will be carried out for the plant to commence operations within two months, trade and industry cabinet secretary Peter Munya said in Nanyuki. Mountex is the latest to queue up for revival after Rivatex in Eldoret and Kicomi in Kisumu.
Munya also warned individuals who had grabbed government land meant for traders in the town.
When the company shut down operations in 2002, 3000 employees became jobless and were forced to seek alternative sources of income.
Munya also announced the immediate revocation of land leased to local traders by the Kenya Industrial Estates for failing to initiate any meaningful cottage industries in the past 25 years ago, according to a report in a Kenyan newspaper.
Locals have further been urged to identify activities that will ensure they are incorporated in the textile value chain when the firm begins operations. F2F
Mozambique looks for ways to monetize Textáfrica factory
Mozambique is looking for ways to monetize the facilities of former textile factory Textáfrica–Sociedade Têxtil de Vila Pery, according to President Filipe Nyusi, who recently said there is a possibility of changing the factory’s activity to make use of the infrastructure. The factory, located in Chimoio (formerly Vila Pery), was closed around 25 years ago.
Chimoio is the capital city of Manica province.
In February this year, Manica provincial governor Manuel Rodrigues said South African textile companies, which he did not identify, had expressed interest in reactivating the factory and had even visited the facility, according to media reports in the country.
In April 2016, then-provincial governor of Manica Alberto Mondlane announced that the central government was conducting studies to restore Textáfrica to operation.
The closure of two textile factories, Textáfrica and the Empresa Moçambicana de Malhas (EMMA), both originally owned by the same Portuguese group, caused a reduction in cotton production in that part of Mozambique, and their bankruptcy resulted in the dismissal of more than 3,000 workers. F2F
Did you know……..
1930s Fashion: What did people wear?
With the Clara Bow flapper look becoming passe, the new rage is the sophisticated Garbo look. The silhouette is tall and slender, emphasizing broad shoulders, a small bosom, streamlined hips and a standard waistline.
Both hair and hems are longer in 1930. The more narrow skirts widen softly below the hip and then stop at mid-calf.
Fashion in 1930 was highly influenced by stars of the silver screen.